Last weekend gave me the opportunity to go to the Swedish west coast to do some rock climbing on the famous Bohuslän granite (Bohuslän is an area along the west coast). The drive from Stockholm is about six hours and we camped at the “klättertorpet” (roughly translates to the climbing hut). It’s basically a strategically placed campground (http://www.klattertorpet.se).
During the weekend we visited a couple of different rocks on the west coast and I will try to summarize all of them:
Our first visit was Välseröd, a big 30 meter slab with that is supposed to have one of Bohusläns finest crack routes named Villskudd. Since that route is to hard for both me, and my climbing partner for the trip, to lead, we did a really easy classic which follows the ramp right to left and then goes up the arête on the left side of the cliff. More info about Välseröd can be found online in “Sverigeföraren”: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/V%C3%A4lser%C3%B6d
Our next stop was Skyggeberg. It is a smaller cliff, but beautifully located right on the coast. Again mainly crack climbing on granite. Super solid rock and great friction. The routes are in the upper section of the cliff seen in the picture below.
On our way back to the campground we made a stop at Svaneberget. The other guys wanted to do the mega classic “Bergkrists polska”, but it was too wet in the morning when we went by. It still looked pretty wet in the afternoon.
Smögen is a super famous summer holiday town known for its picturesque location on the coast. Finding the cliff was not trivial but after some walking around and an easy down-climb to little plateau right next to the water we found one of the most beautiful climbing spots I’ve ever been to. It is located to the northwest from the central part of the village on a south west facing wall, right next to the water (Coordinates are 58.358051,11.21072, use Google maps to find it).
There were four or five routes that varied in difficulty between grade 7 and grade 4. They were short but the quality of the granite was one of the best I’ve ever seen and the view of the archipelago is awesome. It was a bit foggy in the morning, but as the temperature rose, the fog cleared.